The Ones to Watch at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2025
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PARIS — Whether it’s a first season or a quarter of a century’s worth of collections, the brands looking to make a splash at Paris Fashion Week for fall 2025 are all about strong perspectives and exacting technical standards. Bernadette Image Credit: Courtesy After celebrating its fifth anniversary with a Paris café and a New York holiday pop-up in 2024, Belgian brand Bernadette is about to have another milestone on Thursday: its first runway show. “For the past six years, we’ve had to grow so much as people, connect with our customer and see what makes sense for us,” Charlotte De Geyter, one half of the mother-daughter duo behind the Antwerp-based label, told WWD. “Now we feel it’s the right time: We’re ready for it.” The brand has certainly found the playful, art-loving and nature-influenced audience it was hoping for with its inaugural lineup of 12 dresses decked in hand-drawn floral prints. Retail prices for dresses start around 650 euros for day options, while richly embroidered evening gowns can go up to 3,800 euros. Knitwear averages around 800 euros. While the company does not disclose sales figures, De Geyter said the team has now grown to six full-time employees and three freelance designers. Wholesale accounts for 70 percent of the business with 94 doors globally such as Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Le Bon Marché as well as Net-a-porter. Its own e-commerce is also growing strongly, doubling year-on-year for 2024. The fall collection, titled “Sacred Women, Secret World,” is a story they felt needed a 360-degree expression as it centers on the bedroom. Not as a place for seduction, mind you, but as “a very cinematic, intimate space where a woman can recharge,” De Geyter said. “That’s very important for womanhood and it’s a very special moment in the bedroom where she gets ready every day.” Expect lingerie-inspired touches infusing the retro-romantic Bernadette aesthetic and elements influenced by the idea of cycles, such as polka dots that morph into snow, stars or moons. But the runway cycle isn’t one they’re locking themselves into. “I do feel that next season, we will definitely have that hunger to show the collection in a big way,” De Geyter said. “But I don’t want to make promises and get stuck — it’s important for us to have that freedom.” Matières Fécales Image Credit: Courtesy For Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, best known as the creative entity Matières Fécales, their fashion label’s debut on Friday is all about showing their design chops. “For the past 10 years Steven and I have been able to show ourselves through visibility and through our message, but we never had the opportunity to our craftsmanship and patternmaking skills,” Dalton told WWD. The trifecta of perspective, individuality and fearlessness is an idea the duo want to embed in their garments. Rooted in their personal wardrobes and what they want to look like — otherworldly beings, in a nutshell — this inaugural lineup reads as the embodiment of their experience: on the one hand, it’s an armor and on the other, it’s a source of vulnerability for the attention it draws. In the 35-look lineup, which will translate to around 85 stock keeping units in the Dover Street Market Paris showroom, expect a mix of strong-shouldered tailored pieces hewing close to the body and looser options ranging from cocoon-shaped bomber jackets to cozy lush knitwear. Dalton also promised “subtle ways of contorting the body — through the footwear, through the makeup and through couture elements.” “There’s a lot of pieces that can also stand on their own, without the branding, without having to explain it — they can explain themselves — and also be integrated into all types of people’s wardrobe while keeping the same [sense] of being fearless, the values that we have and also be beautiful period,” Bhaskaran said. With a price range that starts around 100 euros for tank tops and 600 euros for, say, tweed corsets and goes up to 5,000 euros for elaborate outerwear, there will be “something for the “mature Matières madam” looking for upscale handcraft-intensive pieces as well as a 25-year-old hankering for destroyed jeans, twisted-seam tank tops and bomber jackets, he promised. Categories will include denim and outerwear as well as shoes, leather goods and jewelry. “We’re also conscious of playing with different price points [and having] things that are still inviting and approachable for a younger clientele,” particularly those who currently feel underserved in today’s luxury landscape, Dalton said. Hayeli Image Credit: Courtesy of Hayeli. What a way to launch. Hayeli’s Paris Fashion Week show at Palais de Tokyo on Monday will not only be its first runway outing but will also mark the debut — and big ambitions — of the six-month-old brand. Hayeli is the brainchild of a triumvirate of cofounding industry executives and creatives: designer and creative director Armine Ohanyan and painter and art director Tigran Tsitoghdzyan, all backed by multibrand retailer Yooto. Ohanyan has helmed her own namesake label since 2017 and has a string of awards and accolades under her belt. She met Tsitoghdzyan through the latter’s art exhibit, and when Yooto approached the artist for a collaboration, the designer’s work immediately came to mind. “He thought we could create this project together,” Ohanyan said. The idea was sparked a year ago, and the design and development process went into high gear in September. Now she will bring in elements of what she calls her signature “techno couture” style to the new collection. Looks will merge fashion and art, playing on the themes of Tsitoghdzyan’s “Mirrors” portrait series to challenge our current cultural obsession with social media. “We explore the delicate balance between privacy and self-promotion,” Ohanyan said. Screens will be incorporated into the clothing to display Tsitoghdzyan’s works, morphing throughout the show. The music and scenography will create an immersive installation billed as part fashion show and part performance piece. Ohanyan revels in the contrast between old-fashioned artisanal techniques and technology. Her Hayeli pieces will juxtapose natural materials like silk organza alongside lenticular fabrics, all handcrafted in her Paris studio. Yooto is part of the Nork Group. The conglomerate, founded by Norayr Khachatryan, operates the online multibrand luxury retailer, a network of physical stores plus manages luxury brands across Eastern Europe. Alongside planned twice-yearly Hayeli runway shows, the brand will develop accessible items such as T-shirts. The company will bring its 30 years of brand-building experience to the table with retail dreams: It plans to open a Hayeli store in the U.S. within a year. Limi Feu Image Credit: Courtesy of Limi Feu “I’m not a fashion designer, I’m a patternmaker,” said Limi Yamamoto ahead of the Paris reveal of the fall 2025 collection of her 25-year-old label Limi Feu. Letting fabrics guide her hand have been the throughline since Day One and the reason why the brand has been largely absent from official fashion week schedules for more than a decade. Not that it has been dormant commercially: it boasts 10 shops-in-shop across Japan, a dozen doors outside Japan and since May, a flagship store in Tokyo’s Aoyama neighborhood. A three-month London pop-up open in November on Savile Row that has now been extended to July heralded Limi Feu’s global ambitions. And with international expansion heating up — a Milan pop-up is slated for September — the designer felt it was time to deliver her message more accurately — and to a broader-than-ever audience. Expect a punk vibe and extensive draping for fall, as pleated wools and rayon viscose are the materials Yamamoto reached for. It will be contrasted with her always-sharp tailoring and a collaboration with Japanese workwear specialist Toraichi. “Everything is about the pattern. Once the pattern is OK, the clothes will be OK; otherwise, it doesn’t work,” she told WWD through a translator. This technique-first approach is something she feels the industry has forgotten, particularly at a time when new designer appointments have come at a fast clip. “Creative directors can change places all over, but tailors and patternmakers sometimes have more skills, more talent than them,” she continued. “While I am not nostalgic, I hope that in the future, clothes will be at the center of the conversation [rather than] the campaign, the model walking the show or the VIP in the front row.” That said, Yamamoto is not ruling out a return to the runway for her label. While determined to only do it when good and ready, there is a sign the wait won’t be long: two Limi Feu silhouettes will be slotted into the Yohji Yamamoto fall show on Friday.
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